All three common siding materials can last for decades in Southeastern Pennsylvania and Delaware, if they’re installed for our climate. Vinyl is the low-maintenance choice, fiber cement is the most durable, and engineered wood gives you the look of wood with less upkeep than cedar. Choose the look and upkeep you want, then judge the installer on what goes behind the siding.
Most siding decisions start with color samples. That’s a fine place to start, but it’s not where siding fails. Around Chester, Delaware, Montgomery, and Bucks Counties and New Castle County, walls fail where water gets behind the siding and stays there: at windows, at the bottom of the wall, and where a roof meets a sidewall. Here’s how our weather treats each material, and what to ask about before you choose.
What our climate asks of siding
Big temperature swings
A south-facing wall here can see 90-degree summer afternoons and single-digit winter nights, and the wall surface in direct sun gets much hotter than the air. Every material moves with temperature, and vinyl moves the most: a long vinyl panel grows and shrinks by a noticeable fraction of an inch between a hot summer wall and a January morning. Siding that isn’t installed to allow for that movement buckles in July and pulls loose in January.
Freeze-thaw and moisture
We average about 44 inches of precipitation a year, and our winters cross the freezing mark again and again. Any material that soaks up water and then freezes is under stress, which is why the details that keep water out of the siding, and let it dry when it does get in, matter so much here.
Humid summers and shaded walls
July dew points in our area average in the mid-60s, and muggy stretches above 70 have become more common. North-facing and shaded walls stay damp longer, so they’re where you’ll see mildew and algae first, and where a wall with water trapped behind it rots fastest.
Wind-driven rain and snow against the wall
Nor’easters and summer storms push rain sideways into every seam, and snow piles up against the bottom of the wall and melts slowly. That’s why manufacturers require clearance between the siding and the ground, and why the flashing at windows and roof lines does more work than the siding itself.
Vinyl siding
Vinyl is the most common siding on homes in our area, and for good reason. It never needs paint, it resists moisture, and today’s thicker panels and better profiles look much better than the siding of 30 years ago.
How it holds up here
Vinyl handles moisture well, but it’s the most sensitive of the three to temperature. In very cold weather, it gets more brittle and can crack if it’s struck. In summer heat it expands, and if it can’t move freely, it waves and buckles. Reflected sunlight from some energy-efficient windows, a neighbor’s or your own, can also concentrate enough heat on a vinyl wall to distort it.
What to look for in the installation
- Nails driven in the center of the nailing slot, with a small gap left under the nail head so the panel can slide. A panel nailed tight can’t move, and that’s what causes most buckling.
- Gaps of about a quarter inch at corners, openings, and trim, and a little more when panels go up in cold weather, so they have room to expand when the weather warms.
- Panels that lock together without being pulled tight.
- A heavier panel and good underlayment behind it if you want a stiffer, straighter-looking wall.
Best for: homeowners who want a clean, low-maintenance wall and never want to paint.
Fiber cement siding
Fiber cement is made from cement, sand, and wood fibers. It looks like painted wood, is very stable, won’t burn, and isn’t bothered by insects. It’s also heavy, and it takes more skill and time to install, which shows up in the price.
How it holds up here
Fiber cement handles heat well and doesn’t move much with temperature. Its weak point in a cold climate is water: boards that stay wet and freeze can be damaged over time. Manufacturers make lines specifically for climates like ours. James Hardie, for example, sells its HZ5 line for areas with freezing temperatures, big seasonal swings, and snow and ice.
What to look for in the installation
- Clearance at the bottom of the wall, typically at least 6 inches above the ground and 1 to 2 inches above a roof surface, per the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Cut edges handled the way the manufacturer specifies, and the right fasteners in the right places.
- A factory-applied finish, or a quality paint job applied in the right weather. Prefinished boards avoid the question of painting in a cold or humid season.
Best for: the longest life, fire resistance, and a crisp painted look, when the budget allows.
Engineered wood siding
Engineered wood siding, such as LP SmartSide, is made from wood strands bonded with resins and treated to resist moisture and rot. It has the grain and depth of real wood, it’s lighter and tougher against impacts than fiber cement, and it holds paint well.
How it holds up here
Engineered wood does well in our climate as long as it stays out of standing water. Its enemy is a wet edge: a cut end left unsealed, or the bottom of the wall buried in mulch, wicks up moisture, and our wet winters and humid summers give it plenty of chances.
What to look for in the installation
- At least 6 inches of clearance between the siding and the ground, and about an inch above porches, patios, and other flat surfaces.
- Every cut end sealed, as the manufacturer requires.
- Landscaping and mulch kept below the bottom of the siding, now and after the next spring cleanup.
Best for: a real-wood look with far less upkeep than cedar, at a cost usually between vinyl and fiber cement.
Why the installation matters more than the material
When we take siding off an older house, the rot we find is almost never caused by the siding material. It’s caused by water getting behind it at a detail someone skipped. Whatever material you choose, this is what keeps the wall dry:
- A weather-resistive barrier (house wrap) behind the siding, lapped so water runs down and out, never behind the layer below.
- Flashed windows and doors. Most wall leaks start at the corners of a window. Flashing tape and head flashing direct water out and over the siding.
- Kickout flashing where a roof edge ends against a sidewall. Without it, water from the roof runs straight down behind the siding, and it’s one of the most common causes of hidden wall rot we see.
- Clearance at the bottom of the wall, so siding isn’t sitting in snow, mulch, or splashback.
- Gutters that work. Overflowing gutters dump water down the face of the wall and against the foundation. When gutters are near the end of their life, it’s usually best to plan them with the siding.
We check what’s behind the siding before we quote: the sheathing, the grade clearance, and the windows, because that’s where walls fail. Then every product goes up the way its manufacturer specifies, so the warranty holds. You can see how we do it on our siding replacement page.
What drives the cost of new siding
Material is only part of the price. Two houses with the same square footage can get very different quotes, and these are the usual reasons:
- The material and profile. Vinyl usually costs least and fiber cement most, with engineered wood in between. Premium colors, thicker panels, and specialty profiles like shakes or board and batten add to any of them.
- The shape of the house. Gables, dormers, bump-outs, and second and third stories take more cutting, more trim, and more time than a plain rectangle.
- Removing the old siding, and what turns up behind it. Rotted sheathing is common around windows and under rooflines, and it has to be repaired before new siding goes on.
- Windows, doors, and trim. Flashing and trimming every opening properly is a large share of the labor, and it’s the part that keeps the wall dry.
- Soffit, fascia, and gutters, if they’re part of the job.
- Access. Steep lots, tight side yards, and established landscaping take more setup and protection.
That’s why a good siding estimate names the exact product, lists the trim and flashing work, and explains how any hidden repairs will be priced, so you can compare one bid with another line by line.
Signs your siding needs more than paint
- Cracked, loose, or missing panels or boards, especially after a storm.
- Walls that wave, buckle, or bulge.
- Soft spots, rot, or swelling at the bottom of the wall, around windows, or under rooflines.
- Peeling paint inside the house on exterior walls, or stains on interior walls after rain.
- Mildew or algae that comes back quickly after cleaning, a sign the wall stays wet.
- Paint that won’t stay on wood siding, no matter how often it’s repainted.
One damaged area can usually be repaired, if matching material is still available. Damage all around the house, or problems that keep coming back, usually make replacement the better investment.
Before you choose: neighborhoods, historic districts, and timing
If you live in a community with a homeowners association, check its rules on materials and colors before you order. If your home is in a historic district, such as the one in West Chester Borough, exterior changes may need review by the local historical architectural review board before work starts, and some boards prefer materials that match the original.
Siding can go up most of the year here. Vinyl needs extra care and wider gaps in cold weather, and paint on fiber cement or wood products has temperature and humidity limits, so spring and fall are the easiest seasons. A full siding job on an average house often takes several days to a week, because windows, doors, and trim are part of the work.
And if your roof is also near the end of its life, plan the two together. The flashing where the roof meets the walls has to be done in the right order, and doing both at once means it only gets done once.
Questions homeowners ask
Which siding lasts the longest in our climate?
Fiber cement usually has the longest life, followed by engineered wood and vinyl, but installation matters more than the label. A well-installed vinyl wall will outlast a poorly installed fiber cement one.
Can new siding go over my old siding?
Sometimes, but we don’t recommend it. Removing the old siding is the only way to see and fix rotted sheathing, add a proper weather barrier, and flash the windows correctly.
Does vinyl siding melt from window reflections?
It can distort. Sunlight reflected from some energy-efficient windows can heat a spot on a vinyl wall far above normal temperatures. If a wall faces a reflective window, it’s worth discussing the panel color and material choice.
Should I replace my gutters when I replace my siding?
If they’re near the end of their life, usually yes. Planning siding and gutters together keeps water off the new wall, and it’s the easiest time to get the flashing at the roof line right. See our gutter services.
How much does new siding cost?
It depends on the material, the size and shape of the house, and how much trim and window work is involved. We give you a written scope that names the exact product, so you can compare it with any other bid. Book a free inspection.
